When curating a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred establishments. However, tucked near the top among these culinary giants is a simple salonu located in a outlying area of north London.
The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has made the proprietors utterly astonished.
“I am totally shocked,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small place earning such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.
This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.
Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent quality.
The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.
It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.
Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.
It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.
“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
This view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.
Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.
Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.
“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.
This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary triumph.
Maya is a wellness coach and writer passionate about holistic health, sharing practical tips for balanced living in the UK.